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#501 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:28 AM

Jimmy, remind me, how did you cross the bulkhead? There are two option in my view: 1- Enlarge the hole in the rubber grommet to take the blinded AN-6 hose. (the downside is that you end with the hose pointing in the wrong direction once in the engine bay) 2- Use a bulkhead fitting ( FBM2072 for example) across the bulkhead, with a connection either side. The upside is that there can be no chance of chafing of the hose on the bulkhead and you can use a 90 degree fitting which allows you to take the hose along the bulkhead. The downside is the introduction on 4 connection.

#502 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 08:29 AM

Jimmy, remind me, how did you cross the bulkhead?

There are two option in my view:

1- Enlarge the hole in the rubber grommet to take the blinded AN-6 hose. (the downside is that you end with the hose pointing in the wrong direction once in the engine bay)

2- Use a bulkhead fitting ( FBM2072 for example) across the bulkhead, with a connection either side. The upside is that there can be no chance of chafing of the hose on the bulkhead and you can use a 90 degree fitting which allows you to take the hose along the bulkhead. The downside is the introduction on 4 connection.


I went for option 1

My concern with option 2 is fitting it all in!!!

It really is a squeeze getting all this lot in and tightening it all up.

Posted Image

I just about managed to cram it in then pull the slack through the bulkhead. If you had fittings then it would be fixed length hoses and more AN-6 fittings to try and tighten in a more awkward place then the two above. I'm not sure it's possible......

With regards to option 1 having the hoses coming through the bulkhead it wasn't a problem as it gave the the opportunity to feed them around my swirl pot shown below (Black ended return from swirl pot and red ended supply to the bottom of the sytec filter).

Posted Image

#503 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 08:46 AM

I was fast coming to the conclusion that for space, option 1 is better. Also a lot cheaper. Where did you get the gromet from?

#504 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 09:02 AM

Re used the originals, but had to drill it out to a wider inner bore and then trim the outer also to get it to fit again after. Was a wrestling match if I'm honest to get it all in (as is getting the circlip back on the pump).


With regards to people considering tank mounting a Bosch 044 is this an option that Pro-Alloy are offering as if not there's little chance that you'll get an 044 to fit into the original fuel pump housing. I spent ages finding my low pressure lift pump as it had to re-use the original housing so had to be identical in size.

Used one of these in the end if anybody needs one.

http://www.fuelpumps...-401-2107-p.asp

#505 CocoPops

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 10:04 AM


I'm going to do Lee's at some point when fitting a PA tank, and go right the way back to the tank with AN lines


:D thumbsup

#506 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:36 AM

And here is what we're going to do.

Posted Image

#507 davemate

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:42 AM

Re used the originals, but had to drill it out to a wider inner bore and then trim the outer also to get it to fit again after. Was a wrestling match if I'm honest to get it all in (as is getting the circlip back on the pump).


With regards to people considering tank mounting a Bosch 044 is this an option that Pro-Alloy are offering as if not there's little chance that you'll get an 044 to fit into the original fuel pump housing. I spent ages finding my low pressure lift pump as it had to re-use the original housing so had to be identical in size.

Used one of these in the end if anybody needs one.

http://www.fuelpumps...-401-2107-p.asp


That is really useful and helpful. :)

#508 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:44 AM

I think that's the perfect solution for most cars. However it'll struggle on the Harrop conversions and struggled on my car @ 260 odd (drive very hard) so a swirl pot was required. Then you need pumps filters and deep pockets lol

#509 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:47 AM

Agreed. Though i think the PA tank takes away some of the problems you're talking about.

#510 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:48 AM

this should really be in your fuel line thread but oh well

#511 techieboy

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 12:07 PM

Now we just need some decent low profile one piece 90° fuel rail adaptors that will take the braided hose and AN fitting direct instead of making it so stupidly large to accommodate.

#512 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 12:43 PM

;)

#513 techieboy

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 12:46 PM

Good. When you've got them, my car awaits. :D

#514 Exmantaa

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 05:31 PM

From what I know the LSJ's (and other) returnless fuel systems have the regulator somewhere at the pumpunit, so the pump always flows, only the high pressure line is tee-ed off to the fuelrail. Not so good for high power boosted engines, as this system has a fixed railpressure and delta P over the injectors changes with manifold pressure. For High HP (Harrop) cars there's a different Walbro in-tank pump available => http://www.full-race...ro-400lph.html. :happy:

#515 JG

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 05:40 PM

that link doesn't work try this one http://www.full-race...bro-400lph.html

#516 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:18 PM

I believe the supply side fitting of the fuel rail has a 1/4" NPT thread. Means one of these takes us straight there :) Not sure what thread's on the return side....

http://www.ebay.co.u...36388097&_rdc=1

These fittings are the same as the ones supplied with the Sytec filter and require PTFE tape to get a seal. My Sytec filter leaked until I contacted the seller and was advised to use PTFE. It is inert to fuel so this is safe practice.

#517 JG

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 01:52 PM

I believe the supply side fitting of the fuel rail has a 1/4" NPT thread. Means one of these takes us straight there :) Not sure what thread's on the return side....

http://www.ebay.co.u...36388097&_rdc=1


Funny you should say that:

Posted Image

its doesn't fit, the thread in the rail is something really odd, and there is a 45 degree metal to metal seal, but we used this at the basis for making proper ones.

#518 FLD

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 04:06 PM

Just retap the rail :unsure:

#519 JG

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 04:43 PM

Nah, i wouldnt' want swaf in there, and its already a large thread, so you'd have to drill it out first then tap and there isn't really enough material for that.

#520 FLD

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 05:47 PM

Slug it then?




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