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#601 Nev

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 06:38 PM

Increasing total brake pot circumference and reducing hydraulic pressure is a serious thing Jimmy. Please take it easy when you first go out, I think may get a bit of a shock when you drive it, I wouldn't be surprised if you need approx. twice the leg pressure to brake in the same way as before. In the OEM setup, my servo sees 500 mBar of vacuum (even with my high engine idle of 1200 RPM) (i.e. 1/2 an atmosphere), that's a lot of force multiplied up by the ratio of the master cylinder that you are eliminating. GL.

Edited by Nev, 22 May 2013 - 06:56 PM.


#602 CocoPops

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 06:48 PM

Interestingly, the guy when he did my MOT yesterday, lifted the bonnet to check for ABS presence. He said they have to do a visual check etc. i'm sure you can find a good one, but worth bearing in mind, even with the work you've done on the lights.

#603 Kieran McC

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 06:55 PM

The brakes should balance out with 4pots on the front 2pots on the rear, What combo of pads will you go for?



#604 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:57 PM

Increasing total brake pot circumference and reducing hydraulic pressure is a serious thing Jimmy. Please take it easy when you first go out, I think may get a bit of a shock when you drive it, I wouldn't be surprised if you need approx. twice the leg pressure to brake in the same way as before. In the OEM setup, my servo sees 500 mBar of vacuum (even with my high engine idle of 1200 RPM) (i.e. 1/2 an atmosphere), that's a lot of force multiplied up by the ratio of the master cylinder that you are eliminating. GL.

 

Will keep this in mind Nev thumbsup

 

Interestingly, the guy when he did my MOT yesterday, lifted the bonnet to check for ABS presence. He said they have to do a visual check etc. i'm sure you can find a good one, but worth bearing in mind, even with the work you've done on the lights.

 

Will be interesting to see if it evre has another mot, but that;s unlikely.  I think if it's there it has to work and if it ins't there has to be no alarms.....

 

The brakes should balance out with 4pots on the front 2pots on the rear, What combo of pads will you go for?

 

I've got PF something or other on front and looking at running some rubbish (ish) pads on the rear to see if this will reduce the effect of the rears a little as I think they are around 10% too effective if I were to use equal pad compounds front and rear....



#605 techieboy

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:00 PM

 looking at running some rubbish (ish) pads on the rear to see if this will reduce the effect of the rears a little 

 

 

I can recommend anything from the EBC line of pads. :lol:



#606 JohnTurbo

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:05 PM

10-15%

#607 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:04 AM

Yeah Johns doing the sums not me lol.... If I'm running grippy fronts what would be a less competitive pad for the rest then...? 1144's maybe...? Is there a way of calculating this?

#608 JohnTurbo

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:53 AM

Best to stick to one manufacturer. Pagid, mintex, hawk, cl - all publish cof or braking torque graphs. If you use mixed manufacturers your brake balance will change with tempertature. None are linear. Id say pagid give the best flexibility for this kind of brake pad tuning.

#609 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 03:06 PM

Hmm, here's a pagid graph, not really able to calculate 10% though :D

 

Posted Image

 



#610 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 03:09 PM

more non specific information :lol:

 

Posted Image

 

Posted Image



#611 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 03:10 PM

I think RS 14 fronts and RS 4-2 rears may work well



#612 CocoPops

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 03:14 PM

I love my 14s once they get warm, when cold they're not great.

#613 Bumblebee

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 03:21 PM

I find them great from cold but then again I can't say too much when I had red stuff on before lol

#614 smiley

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:18 PM

I think RS 14 fronts and RS 4-2 rears may work well

A few more on the dutch club drive that same setup. Not your drastic deletion job though :lol:



#615 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

To be honest I have both sets of calipers running PF 01's currently (by luck rather than design).  The second hand pad market isn't the greatest (:lol:) so I'm not going to see any money back by removing these and new Pagid RS14/4-2 combo is going to set me back over £340. 

 

Think it's cheaper for me to go with the AP Brake Proportioning valve....

 

Posted Image



#616 JohnTurbo

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:02 PM

You make a good case for it!

 



#617 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:13 PM

You make a good case for it!

 

 

 

I know it's not ideal but it takes the guesswork out of pad claculations and I just had a cracking deal on the lever type version of this valve!! 

 

I prefer the lever option as the settings will be more defined and 'repeatable' in varying conditions....

 

http://www.burtonpow...CFUXJtAodkVgArw

 

 

 Got it new for £85  :)   Just need another line to go between this and the master cylinder and sort the pedal feel and I'm good to go :)

 

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#618 JohnTurbo

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:15 PM

Ideal. :-)



#619 Wreelybro

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:57 PM

We use the same on the Mini Miglia I support. Good choice mate.

#620 Winstar

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 10:19 PM

Hmm, here's a pagid graph, not really able to calculate 10% though :D

 

Posted Image

 

With friction coefficients http://www.motorspor...ictionChart.pdf






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