Jump to content


Photo

Fuel Pump Replacement Guide


  • Please log in to reply
117 replies to this topic

#41 toffer

toffer

    Member

  • Pip
  • 22 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 25 February 2012 - 03:50 AM

I dont believe it. Tried bump start - no go. called our RACV - guy arrives - go to demonstrate and the bugger started!

#42 toffer

toffer

    Member

  • Pip
  • 22 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 26 February 2012 - 03:02 AM

WTF - Went to start it today and same old problem back.

#43 Bargi

Bargi

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,483 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:London

Posted 26 February 2012 - 08:22 AM

So rulled out fuel cut out switch? Out of interest have you wired up the old pump externally to see if it works ok? So after an ECU reset it starts for a few seconds then dies and won't start again until another ECU reset. Could it be it's primeing, starting and using the primed fuel in the rail, then stopping once it's used the fuel in the rail? So for some reason the pump primes but doesn't continue to run when started? What tells the pump to start running when engine is running, ECU? Scangauge not connecting could point to failing ECU? I'm pretty sure there's no "pressure sensor" for the fuel, pump just runs when engine is started and excess fuel comes back into the tank. Hopfeully the Oracle that is Vocky will come and confirm/deny/add to what I've said.

#44 toffer

toffer

    Member

  • Pip
  • 22 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 26 February 2012 - 01:53 PM

I tested old pump before discarding. Scan Gauge worked once I got the car started. So I just checked with Scan Gauge and got code P1612 loss of IPM serial Data. Searching here seems to indicate an immobiliser problem - so I guess I am going to follow these tests first before I go replacing immobiliser.

#45 mikeerhymes

mikeerhymes

    Member

  • Pip
  • 40 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:cheshire

Posted 22 March 2012 - 01:31 PM

Hi All I'm having a similar situation, just pulled the VXT out after 6months of hibernation and she won't start. Turns over fine but won't fire. Im suspecting the fuel pump as it doesn't sound like its priming when I turn the ignition on. To confirm its a fuelling problem I've tried a dribble of fuel on each plug and it fires ok (just for a split second or so). Whats the best route to start testing things? Should the relays be the first port of call before 'presuming' its the fuel pump, they are in the boot somewhere I believe? Anything else I can look out for/test? Thanks in advance!! Mike

#46 2deano5

2deano5

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 668 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Sussex
  • Interests:Cars / Squash

Posted 22 March 2012 - 01:43 PM

Just another thing to check, I was having similar problems and it turned out to be the plug that plugs into the top of the fuel pump/sender/tank. The pins inside the plug had spread and were not making good contact. It would prime, start then cut out. Pushed the 4 pins back in so they made a good connection using the tiniest screwdriver every and the problems went away. Good luck :) Deano

#47 nicollow

nicollow

    ...

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,801 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Edinburgh

Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:36 AM

Can anyone tell me what size the torx bolt is on the seat belt winder mounting?!? It's bigger than anything I have in my tool kit, so need to make a run to Halfords :(

#48 Claws

Claws

    Stage FA NA FTW!

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,246 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Motherwell
  • Interests:Daft plastic cars

Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:45 AM

I'm about to pop through shortly, I can check if I have the correct torx in my tools if someone can verify it thumbsup

#49 nicollow

nicollow

    ...

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,801 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Edinburgh

Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:49 AM

In halfords already :P

#50 Claws

Claws

    Stage FA NA FTW!

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,246 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Motherwell
  • Interests:Daft plastic cars

Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:58 AM

Haha, when all else fails, buy a selection of large torx :lol:

#51 SteveA

SteveA

    .

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,151 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North East UK

Posted 13 April 2013 - 11:15 AM

It's either T45 or T50. Pretty sure it's T50.

#52 nicollow

nicollow

    ...

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,801 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Edinburgh

Posted 13 April 2013 - 12:24 PM

Yup, got it now. It's a 50 for future ref

Edited by nicollow, 13 April 2013 - 12:33 PM.


#53 smiley

smiley

    Thetan level 15

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 19 April 2014 - 05:06 PM

Some detailed pixies on how to get the hoses off the housing without force or fooking things:

http://www.vx220.org...sing/?p=1685578

 

 



#54 freturbo

freturbo

    Member

  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Location:Belgium

Posted 10 May 2014 - 01:20 PM

Hi Guys,

 

I bought a 255l/h pump from Courtenay and am fitting it following this guide.  It's very difficult to get the convulated pipe on it, had to order some spare ones that will arrive in a few days.

 

Do i just have to slide the pump in the housing or do I have to cut something away or secure the pump, the original pump stays in its place with the fuel filter (so it doesn't drop).  But the walbro pump has a filter with 

 

a spring inside and can slide down since it isn't attached to the housing.  Should i just let it rest on it's spring?  Hope you understand what I mean.

 

Thanks in advance for any responses.

 

Fre



#55 vocky

vocky

    Moderator

  • 11,969 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Earth

Posted 10 May 2014 - 10:09 PM

yes, the fuel pump just slides into the housing.

 

You should use the original hose and trim it from the old pump, retaining as much of the original hose as possible, then use a fuel clip to secure the original hose to the new fuel pump. Bin the new hose, it really doesn't fit.



#56 DaveyC

DaveyC

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 259 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:United Kingdom

Posted 08 April 2015 - 12:26 PM

Has anyone else struggled with the big blue seal to get the assembly back into the fuel tank? It went in really easy but it turned out the seal had just dropped into the tank. It seems to be a little too large to fit properly.

#57 CHILL Gone DUTCH

CHILL Gone DUTCH

    I ADMIT BATMAN THINKS HE IS QUICKER THAN ME

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,727 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:UK

Posted 08 April 2015 - 12:36 PM

Give it a good twist It shouldn't fall of but if it was twisted it tends to fall down, What I'm trying to say is make sure it's not twisted 🙈

#58 DaveyC

DaveyC

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 259 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:United Kingdom

Posted 04 May 2015 - 07:55 AM

Gave up and bought a new one. Fitted in really easily. Now I've had the pump out AGAIN and this one has swollen too! No amount of twisting and shoving is getting it in.

#59 JG

JG

    Newbie

  • 13,612 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Berks

Posted 04 May 2015 - 08:39 AM

you need a new blue seal everytime (with the PA tank, easier with the std one) and i put it in the freezer over night first which helps a lot. 



#60 aKra

aKra

    Member

  • Pip
  • 109 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:The Netherlands

Posted 06 October 2015 - 01:11 AM

Subscription Expired

This wiki's subscription has expired. The wiki will be reactivated once one of the wiki organizers renews the wiki's subscription. For more information, please visit this blog post.

 

(On the VX220 wiki site, wanted to have a read about replacing the pump :dry: )






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users