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Full Conversion Of Oe Fuel Hoses To AN/JIC


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#21 NickB787

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 09:32 AM

When I get home Nick I'll send you my basket at Summit Racing which is where I'm ordering almost all of the fixings from and you can work out what you need extra as you might need a couple more due to your swirl pot.

thumbsup cheers

#22 alanoo

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 10:10 AM

Especially when you see the shipping costs at Summit Racing... you definitely should order quite a few of those...

#23 NickB787

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 09:53 AM

I will need to replace my swirl pit as it only has clam on hose outlets I will need screw type, pain...

#24 Muncher

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 03:56 PM

I've been having a look and debating whether it is worth swapping them. The plastic OEM lines as far as I am aware last forever, whereas I've seen several mentions of aftermarket hose perishing and leaking. Perhaps the safest solution is to encase the lines in something solid around the SC belt area? It may not be the neatest but what are your thoughts?

#25 Denthrax

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 07:51 AM

I've been having a look and debating whether it is worth swapping them.

The plastic OEM lines as far as I am aware last forever, whereas I've seen several mentions of aftermarket hose perishing and leaking.

Perhaps the safest solution is to encase the lines in something solid around the SC belt area? It may not be the neatest but what are your thoughts?


I'm also thinking in going that route. I don't see me changing al the fuel lines at this point so I had the idea of pulling a braided hose over the existing fuel lines near the SC belt.

*edit* Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.u...d#ht_1872wt_905

Edited by Denthrax, 10 September 2011 - 07:58 AM.


#26 alexb

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 07:53 AM

Has somebody actually done this? I'm preparing for a SC installation and thought it a good idea to change the fuel lines completely but am now running into an issue due to the lack of space close to the fuel pump. The fuel pump feed and return are angled away from the bulkhead at about 135 degrees and there is precious little space for the AN6 adapters and hose connectors, which are quite bulky. The OE lines use a small 90 degree connector that has plenty of space to slide on and off the fuel pump lines. I've inceased the size of the inspection hatch and cut away the complete corner so that I can access the feed lines of the pump easily and I've ordered 90 degree male-female elbows and am now hoping that there is enough space -angling the hose up or down a bit- to clear the side walls. This might work with a 135 degree hose connector to AN6 too, but these things are too expensive to just order a couple and keep on trying. BTW, the OE quick connect to AN6 adapters you can get from Torques in the UK. I found out after buying them from Summitracing in the US (if you ask they will use USPS, which saves you a lot in shipping cost) and getting the rest of the stuff from Torques only to find out that they sell the very same (at least they look exactly the same; in the Torques shop is under 'OE quick connect to AN6 adapters)

#27 Rally

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 01:27 PM

Man, I wish I had seen this thread two months ago. I didn't know about those quick connect to -6 JIC fittings.

I bought the fuel rail adapters which turned up last week but I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet. I have Aeroquip hose going to the rail already, just need to change the ends once I've decided between 90 or 120 deg fittings. I suspect I will end up working backwards towards the tank replacing everything.

#28 vocky

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 04:38 PM

you can simply cut the original black plastic fuel return pipe from the fuel pump connector, then slip the new pipe over and secure with a suitable fuel hose clip. The fuel pressure pipe should not require modifying as it goes direct to the fuel filter, so simply connect the new fuel hose at the fuel filter outlet.

#29 alexb

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:24 AM

Thanks for the answer. It may come down to using the original connectors at the pump side, but I started the whole thing because I want to avoid hose clips. Not that I'm so much against them, but if you can go to more reliable ways of connecting, why not. So I'll try the AN6 all the way method and post if that works. And if not use the old connectors. I have a new fuel filter too BTW, AN6 connections. So the feed line gets the same treatment. And I have the fuel rail adapters, as the whole idea was to go AN6 all the way.

#30 mige

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:10 PM

hallo i fitted mine with 150° elbows pump outlet fitting have 2-3 mm space to aluminium lg mige

#31 alanoo

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:21 PM

Yep works fine with a 135 or 150° outlet or a 90° forged one works great too as it's a bit shorter

#32 Rally

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 10:08 PM

Here's a pretty crappy pair of camera-phone pics of my -6 conversion of the top end. At the rail end there are the converters that fit to the rail and 90 deg fittings to the hose. I decided to colour code the supply and return fittings just to avoid any mishaps in the future!

Posted Image

The other end of the hoses look like this:
Posted Image
The bracket keeps the hose onto the fuel filter pipe under compression so the worse that can happen is a bit of seepage rather than the hose blowing off entirely. Note the use of double jubilee clips too!

Now that I know you can get converters to fit the pump housing I'm sure I'll replace the rest of the system with compression fittings... probably when I fit the Proalloy fuel tank ;)

#33 alexb

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 12:08 PM

Good to see that it's working, AN6 the whole way I mean. I'm still waiting for the 150 degree thingies to arrive. Does anybody know how to tighten the AN6 fittings? Somewhere I've read one to one and a half flats (with a flat being one sixth of a full turn) from handtight, but like to know for sure.

#34 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 12:20 PM

Now then Rally, you have just volunteered your help on project Time Attack... That is a conversion I want done, can you point me in the right direction of the bits to buy and then maybe you could have a look at that for me when the car gets back?

#35 Rally

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 02:33 PM

Ha! Sure, no worries. PM on the way.

#36 alexb

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 01:17 PM

OK, got this done now. Yes, 150 degree hose fittings work at the pump, but it's very tight. Especially the return side. Got some pictures, but don't want to spend hours figuring out how to post them.

#37 Exmantaa

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 01:44 PM

What hose quality is under that braided skin?? (use only good quality injection hose, SAE 30R9 or higher) Difficult to spot if your pressure hose is deteriorating...

#38 alexb

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:44 PM

In my case it's teflon inside the hose. Should be good for injection systems. Sold for it (although that doesn't say a thing)

#39 Rally

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 04:20 PM

I use Aeroquip FC333 hose:
"For war zones like Vietnam the US military required a range of strong, light, high temperature hose assemblies that could be serviced in the field for use in oil, fuel and hydraulic applications, mainly on helicopters... This hose has AQP elastomer tube, partial stainless steel inner braid and a full stainless steel outer braid reinforcement."

It has a rated working pressure of 1000psi and a burst pressure of 6000psi so more than capable of handling fuel injection ;)

#40 JG

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:24 AM

http://www.summitrac...rts/RUS-640850/
http://www.summitrac...rts/RUS-640860/


I'm about to place an order for these, postage is on the expensive side of expensive, so if anyone else would like a set, shout now.

Currently i'm ordering two sets.




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