quite easy, the electric pump outlet must feed direct to the block to avoid flow issues, so I've removed the drive sprocket and internal impellor from the factory pump (makes converting back easier - if ever required, I have also fitted the balancer delete just in case), then I had to blank off the original heater pipes (you can see the alloy blanks in the above pic).how do you run the oil cooler with an electric water pump ?
Next job is to re-route the heater circuit, the outlet to the heater matrix comes from the engines coolant outlet (before the new remote thermostat housing), the heater return goes direct to the oil cooler and the oil cooler outlet goes into the main coolant pipe before the pump (which is where the expansion tank also connects into the coolant system).
The heater cicuit is also the thermostat bypass so the pump can still flow when the engine is cold.
Because this is a Saab engine the engine temperature sensor is mounted at the engine coolant outlet, so the original sensor was blanked off with a spare water pump drain screw (perfect fit).
The added bonus of the electric water pump is the heater actually works
Edited by vocky, 18 February 2011 - 01:05 PM.
or authorcite Mmm
Can't wait to drive it! Gonna have to get a couple of test trackdays in to iron out any small issues so I can be on full attack mode at the national and le mans 
anthracite 
