3266 replies to this topic

[The Batman]

nice little update today

interior:

2.7ohm resistors to illiminate air bag light

front end:

front splitter and undertray

backend:

pax turbo vent
spoiler
undertray
diffuser

hopeing to do a bit tomorrow, pax turbo vent, a few little tidy bits aswell.

but sme more good news thanks to lee and vocky being able to pop over and give me a hand for a couple of hours bosched alot of work out! and managed to get the engine started

but unfortunately the chain driven water pump (which im not using so didnt get replaced) is leaking but vocky happens to have a spare that he is going to modify tonight so i can fit it tomorrow hopefully

unfortunately there is another but, the engine isnt running as sweet as it should be and im putting this down to the map so will ring jon on monday and get the car dropped off to him for him to put a better base map on it but it seems to run perfectly higher up the rev range than it does on idle! so a little tweak and it should be fine!

i also have an eml so it could just be a dodgy sensor! i no longer have a scanguage tho

but the engine STILL started

i have never seen a car rev up so quick before its amazing quick i cannot wait to drive it!

Edited by joe_589, 16 July 2011 - 05:00 PM.

[Dave E]

About bloody time, Le Mans Bugatti is three weeks TODAY, now get off the forum and get it finished

[Mangham54]

I've said it before and I'll say it again... Joe get to work... Think you need to work some overnighters to catch up from all the time spent jibber-jabber!

[The Batman]

I'm trying to blag half the week off this week at work but it's looking doubtful! To be honest the rest of the stuff is all cosmetic and isnt a necessity to have! I will have it finished this week then just need to wait and see if courtenays can squeeze me in a lil earlier! I'm still so amazed how mental it revs... I may need some bigger Tyres

[haggi961]

Well done mate and all of your hard work has paid off now, also we need videos to prove of this revving

Edited by haggi961, 16 July 2011 - 05:15 PM.

[The Batman]

Will wait until the map is perfected but it definitely revs faster than my transit

[MAXR]

I'll happily test drive it & run it in for you????

[Nev]

Congrats Joe I wouldn't worry about the low revs/idleing issue too much. Mine did the same and ran like a bag of spanners under 1500 revs, simply because I had changed SO much that the old map was completely and utterly incorrect. What cam profiles have you got and did you work the head and increase valve size? In fact, can you list your full engine spec with all the parts pls? If you jump in the queue at CS before me I will kill you! My car has been there over a month now (waiting for a part from Klassen). Ask Jon to try and compare the engines (mine vs yours), will be interesting to hear what he thinks. Also, it would be interesting to drive each others cars to see what the driving is like as they will be first UK ones (I know of) that have genuinely exceeded 400 BHP. Im thinking of getting someone like MVS to quote me for an entire new (fastback) rear clam to aero it better, improve cooling, articulate from the rear (like a Noble) for fast access and to allow super wide wheels (say 335mm). Would u be interested ? Well done again. Nev.

Edited by Nev, 16 July 2011 - 08:19 PM.

[NickB787]

Well done Joe,

[MAXR]

It must be a such a worrying time starting the car for the first time...So well done, next Courtenays!!!! I will also be interested in gently taking your car for a spin on track, just to see if mine could do with a Harrop being bolted on. Yours & Nev's car will be mental...elasticated pants will be essential!

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

I will also be interested in gently taking your car for a spin on track, just to see if mine could do with a Harrop being bolted on.

Here we go......

[garyk220]

Nice one Joe. Will be really interesting to see what you get once fully mapped

Im thinking of getting someone like MVS to quote me for an entire new (fastback) rear clam to aero it better, improve cooling, articulate from the rear (like a Noble) for fast access and to allow super wide wheels (say 335mm). Would u be interested ?

Nev, how about getting something like this modified to suit (developed by TMS a few years ago for the Brit Car entry)? Would be much easier and cheaper to get made without resorting to get a completely new rear end manufactured. If the hinges were designed correctly, then it would almost be a simple bolt on job after removing the roll bar and engine covers.

[The Batman]

vocky had a spare few minutes and popped round with a new modified water pump with a lovely machined plug to stop it ever leaking

managed to complete one side turbo vent, now to do the other one (horrible job ) tidy'd up some wiring today and also wired the guages inside (very cool lightshown start up )

going to wait until i have some brass nuts (oooerrr) until i start it up again to fit the manifold to the block.

I wouldn't worry about the low revs/idleing issue too much. Mine did the same and ran like a bag of spanners under 1500 revs, simply because I had changed SO much that the old map was completely and utterly incorrect. What cam profiles have you got and did you work the head and increase valve size? In fact, can you list your full engine spec with all the parts pls?

yeah i am going to run the car again hopefully tomorrow and note down the air/fuel ratio to make sure that it is perfect or should i say SAFE! the exhaust makes a lot of bangs after releasing the throttle pedal so i imagine its over fueling quite alot? whatare your thoughts? engine spec.... hmmm here goes from memory!

b207 engine
ported and polished head
gm racing 0.5mm larger valves
supertech 78lb dual valve springs
comp blower cams
low compression z22 oversized pistons 0.20
eagle z22 rods
z22yh crank
balance delete, water pump delete, balancer chain delete
harrop
6 speed m32 vxr gearbox
full 3" 2bular with 2" primaries
porsche tb
custom air filter and pipe

pretty much sums it up i think

If you jump in the queue at CS before me I will kill you! My car has been there over a month now (waiting for a part from Klassen). Ask Jon to try and compare the engines (mine vs yours), will be interesting to hear what he thinks. Also, it would be interesting to drive each others cars to see what the driving is like as they will be first UK ones (I know of) that have genuinely exceeded 400 BHP.

im up for a swap ontrack aslong as you doesnt do wheelies i dont know if i will break the 400bhp barrier who knows im still not sure if i want that much... its going to ainy be a track car probably is too much! your car is completely different to mine ,you will have alot more power and torque! mine should be smoother delivery tho

It must be a such a worrying time starting the car for the first time...So well done, next Courtenays!!!!

I will also be interested in gently taking your car for a spin on track, just to see if mine could do with a Harrop being bolted on.

Yours & Nev's car will be mental...elasticated pants will be essential!

it definately was a worrying start up but it did! just gutted its not running perfect so i can take it for a drive! but i imagine its safe... so will speak to Jon tomorrow to see what he says!!

harrop is alot easier than stripping more weight and probably cheaper

[Nev]

Nice one Joe. Will be really interesting to see what you get once fully mapped

Im thinking of getting someone like MVS to quote me for an entire new (fastback) rear clam to aero it better, improve cooling, articulate from the rear (like a Noble) for fast access and to allow super wide wheels (say 335mm). Would u be interested ?

Nev, how about getting something like this modified to suit (developed by TMS a few years ago for the Brit Car entry)? Would be much easier and cheaper to get made without resorting to get a completely new rear end manufactured. If the hinges were designed correctly, then it would almost be a simple bolt on job after removing the roll bar and engine covers.

I think thats the Badster fastback, which solves one of the problems, but doesnt address the issue of super wide wheels at the rear and Im not sure it's cantilevered is it ?

[The Batman]

na thats not badster that is one off tms one

[Nev]

Joe, if your fuel has been sitting around for 9 months then expect it to have severly broken down (chemical bonds). When I ran mine on 1 year old fuel I noticed it was creating really really hot EGTs. Once I put fresh fuel in it ran noticably cooler and better. This might be a factor in your poor running too. More questions: 1. Who did your head porting ? 2. Did you just regrind the old valve seats or put new ones in, and who did the machine work for u pls ? The rest of the build sounds sensible. Didn't u put new crank bearings in, particularilty as u put a new crank in ? I ran my engine in even though it sounded aweful and ran like shite under 1500 revs, so long as u run with limited boost (put a really weedy home-made spring in the actuator) and a max of just 40% load on engine (ie no harsh acceleration) then you shouldn't suffer from det IMO. It sounds like you are running rich, so that is good too, so long as its not stupidly rich (like under 11:1) to avoid borewash. If you don't make 400 BHP, at least you have bags of room to put titchy turbo charger in as well (if your pride can take it!) LOL Nev.

Edited by Nev, 17 July 2011 - 06:33 PM.

[The Batman]

Joe, if your fuel has been sitting around for 9 months then expect it to have severly broken down (chemical bonds). When I ran mine on 1 year old fuel I noticed it was creating really really hot EGTs. Once I put fresh fuel in it ran noticably cooler and better. This might be a factor in your poor running too.

More questions:

1. Who did your head porting ?
2. Did you just regrind the old valve seats, and who did the machine work for u pls ?

The rest of the build sounds sensible. Didn't u put new crank bearings in, particularilty as u put a new crank in ?

I ran my engine in even though it sounded aweful and ran like shite under 1500 revs, so long as u run with limited boost (put a really weedy how made spring in the actuator) and a max of just 40% load on engine (ie no harsh acceleration) then you shouldn't suffer from det IMO. It sounds like you are running rich, so that is good too, so long as its not stupidly rich (like under 11:1) to avoid borewash.

If you don't make 400 BHP, at least you have bags of room to put titchy turbo charger in as well (if your pride can take it!) LOL

yeah the fuel is 9 months old... 20L left, so i guess i better go get 10L of super fuel and top it up, reckon its worth putting some octane booster in it for the old fuel?

vocky did the porting he knows the machinest aswell i cant remember there names, in bedford. obviously everything was new when it went together such as bearings etc

so fuel/air ratios, 11 is rich, say 17 is high? i know with the engine off it measures 14.6 so i imagine this is optimum?

im not chasing numbers im making it an ultimate vx more towards trackdays though but it looks really good too not just a stripped out shlag

[Nev]

Stoich is 14.6 for petrol, so if you are getting that at idle it's stop on . Going below this number means you are running lean, going above this value means you are running rich. You basically should not be leaving your engine to idle much at all while running in. So long as you are only driving at partial load, an AFR value between around 12 (quite rich) and 16 (tollerably lean) will be fine IMO. I know this cos mine was all over the place between these values and sometimes even further out of tollereance, though I think I had air creaping into the exhaust which messed up the widewand reading. Octane booster might help a bit, though u need loads of it to make any diff (its a marketing scam that only acutally raises your ocatne by 0.1 pt (when they say 1.0 pt)). Maybe just siphone some old crap out if u can and then fill it up with fresh 99 octane. When I was running in, I used an adjustable AFR to increase the fuell rail pressure, this allowed me to run richer on the whole and have some safety margin. Towards the end of my run in (ie after 500 miles) I was catching boost upto about 1.0 bar and accidentally went up to about 1.5 bar on a couple of occasions and once I think it hit 2.0 bar (for a split second). In each case the engine seemed fine (apart from the insane amount of noise which paniced me!). On a serious note, make sure you dont accidentally drive into someone's rear when you are staring at the gauges all the time! Good luck, fingers crossed for you. BTW, I'd advise changing the oil after only about 100 miles, you will be amazed just how much swarf you get on your sump plug (make sure u use a magnetic one). I left mine unchanged for 250 miles and that was too long

Edited by Nev, 17 July 2011 - 08:15 PM.

[The Batman]

Yeah cheers for the info I'm taking the aggressive engine run in anyway after 50miles or so.. So aslong as it's between 12 and 16 I will make sure of this and it hasn't idle'd for long at all as I know this isn't good for an new engine I have ran in a couple of engines now Can't wait to take it for a spin! Car should be complete this week! Will let you know what boost levels I have however I know it won't be as high as yours be interesting to find out PROPER intake air temps Aswell I have all the oil Aswell (7L sump has made it expensive ) first engine oil change at 100 refilled with running in oil again and then proper oil after 250miles and full boost time

Edited by joe_589, 17 July 2011 - 08:46 PM.

[vocky]

yeah the fuel is 9 months old... 20L left, so i guess i better go get 10L of super fuel and top it up, reckon its worth putting some octane booster in it for the old fuel?

good point, might be worth sticking some octane booster in