3266 replies to this topic

[MAXR]

Glad it's progressed Joe. It idles no worse than my car.... ...Well, do you want my opinion on how to run your car in? It's simples....

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

You need different tyres before you run it in

[The Batman]

I'm taking slindys view on running an engine in Thrash it for 50 miles jobs done lol

[techieboy]

Served me well the second time around.

[leevx2.2]

You need different tyres before you run it in

I will swap wheels with you for some more practical winter wheels and tyres 

[rob999]

I look forward to a pax young Joseph.

[Nev]

I'm taking slindys view on running an engine in

Thrash it for 50 miles jobs done lol

Joe, it's not a case of thrashing it that is important (though just mild driving is not good either), I think you just need to be either accelerating or de-accelerating (rather than holding the revs steady) over a wideish range of revs. The de-acceleration is just as important as accelerating as I suspect it loads/twists the pistons/rings 180 degrees the other way to brush against the opposite side of the cylinder. I wouldn't go bokers with your revs either initially, as all your crank bearing and big end shells need to loosen up incase any of them are over-tight/pinching and not getting ample oil initially.

When I ran mine in, I was fairly progressive and started allowing boost to be generated more and more over the course of 500 miles. This seemed to work well for me. At the end of the day, the key influence in whether your engine has good compression and doesn't smoke is more to do with the quality/exactness of your rebore and relationship with the piston material and the bore/piston clearance. If I remember correctly on mine, the bore is 86.5mm and the piston rings are just 0.06 mm smaller. As yours is more of a race engine you may have reduced this bore/piston clearnce if you know you can pre-heat your engine on cold days and avoid any dreaded cold starts.

Edited by Nev, 10 December 2011 - 02:38 PM.

[The Batman]

Nev thanks for that, although just to clarify mine isnt a race engine, merely a highly spec'd engine like yours and hopefully built for reliability aswell as power so very similar to your engine in that respect. I have faith in the engine, and I'm a rather big kid which kinda makes me wanna take it for a spin now but I know that fuel is crap!

[FLD]

I agree with Nev. As long as the cams have been broken in properly dont go mad and make sure you're up and down the rev range.

[Nev]

Nev thanks for that, although just to clarify mine isnt a race engine, merely a highly spec'd engine like yours and hopefully built for reliability aswell as power so very similar to your engine in that respect.

I have faith in the engine, and I'm a rather big kid which kinda makes me wanna take it for a spin now but I know that fuel is crap!

Yea, really watch that old fuel, syphon it off if you can. I ran my engine in initially on 1 year old fuel and it made the exhaust really noticably hotter and it ran like a dog. In retrospect I wish I had syphoned it out myself.

[slindborg]

given the heads like to fall off the valves, I'd be wanting AFR to be in the realms of 12:1 or lower (to 9ish) under any sort of load

[Nev]

An AFR of 9 is bloody rich just for 22 pounds of boost, maybe 10 or 10.5 would be more sensible?

[Exmantaa]

Yes, 9-ish seems awfully rich bore washing... The big power US Ecotec guys seem to target around a safe 11.8 AFR at max torque

[slindborg]

note the ish

[The Batman]

Yea, really watch that old fuel, syphon it off if you can. I ran my engine in initially on 1 year old fuel and it made the exhaust really noticably hotter and it ran like a dog. In retrospect I wish I had syphoned it out myself.

yeah i am going to drain it to make way for my pro alloy tank

10-12 on the old afr is the aim then, i will make sure it stays in that

[Nev]

Do you Z22 guys have a stand Bosch fitment FPR on your fuel rails ? If so, I can lend you my adjustable FPR Joe, it adjusts from 3 Bar to 5 Bar and you could set it up to over deliver fuel for the initial run in (which is what I did) for safety. Bore wash wont be a risk unless you drive a lot of miles (like 1000+) with AFRs below 9.0 Better to be safe than sorry IMO. Even better still buy a widband kit and install it - that way you can monitor your AFRs from inside the cabin as your drive.

[The Batman]

i have a wideband fitted nev, hence the video of it you must have missed that post!!! thanks for the offer, i will go through the rev range at some point and jot all the afr's down to make sure it is safe it should be spot on as its nicks map and i doubt our engines differ that much. although mine will be more powerful

[techieboy]

although mine will be more powerful

Bitch.

[The Batman]

[Nev]

i have a wideband fitted nev, hence the video of it you must have missed that post!!!

thanks for the offer, i will go through the rev range at some point and jot all the afr's down to make sure it is safe it should be spot on as its nicks map and i doubt our engines differ that much. although mine will be more powerful

Ooops, didnt see that video. Am I right in thinking you already have Nicks new map uploaded into your ECU? If so, I would have thought it was almost a perfect match and good to drive moderately hard.