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Vx220 Heater

Started by T7Design , Dec 30 2010 04:07 PM

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#41 slindborg

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 08:05 AM

Hi Guys,

I am expecting the heater from MoneyHunster to come through soon and I will be able to see what size rads can fit and whether I can squeeze in two fans to give it a bit more poke.

It would be really helpful if anybody could pop round so I may get a of feel of the original system and to also see how much of an improvement an prototype system could make, if anybody is interested I can do them a free heater for their troubles! I would require you to pop around twice, once for measuring and a 2nd time for fitting and trials.

Regards,
Adam

P.S. I forgot to add I am based in Exeter!



the std rad and std fan are more than upto the job.... just they are packaged so so very badly that they appear to be sh** :(

#42 soupdragon

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 08:37 AM

There is certainly an incentive to come up with a working replacement! Perhaps then I could afford my own VX220 ;)

Is there anybody in Exeter on here that owns a VX220 as it would be good to see what the original system is like.


I'm in Torquay and work in Exeter Monday to Friday
Your welcome to have a look at mine
Doug

#43 T7Design

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:36 PM

The VX220 heater arrived today from MoneyHunster today. Many thanks buddy! I have a few questions with regards to the heater: 1. What is the electrical module on top the unit? Is it some kind of sensor? 2. Somebody mentioned that it might be best to relocate the air inlet to the heater, why is this and do most people agree it would be beneficial? 3. Instead of recreating the flappy paddle inside the heater it would be far cheaper to install a water control valve, however does the engine require constant flow of hot water through the heating pipes to warm up or operate at the correct temperature? 4. What is the price for an original replacement heater assembly? Cheers!

#44 techieboy

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:37 PM

The electrical gubbins on top is the "resistor pack" to control the 3 fan speeds.

#45 moneyhunster

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:59 PM

The VX220 heater arrived today from MoneyHunster today. Many thanks buddy! HOPE IT HELPS thumbsup
I have a few questions with regards to the heater:

1. What is the electrical module on top the unit? Is it some kind of sensor? ANSWERED ABOVE
2. Somebody mentioned that it might be best to relocate the air inlet to the heater, why is this and do most people agree it would be beneficial? ANYTHING SUCKED IN THROUGH THE FRONT OF THE CARS GRILLE COMES STRAIGHT THROUGH THE HEATER THEN THE PIPE THEN THE DASH VENTS BUZ BUZ thumbsdown
3. Instead of recreating the flappy paddle inside the heater it would be far cheaper to install a water control valve, however does the engine require constant flow of hot water through the heating pipes to warm up or operate at the correct temperature? SOMEONE WILL CLEAR THAT ONE UP
4. What is the price for an original replacement heater assembly? LOTS, I DONT KNOW ANYONE THAT HAS PURCHASED ONE NEW? THEIR £75 SECONDHAND FROM DOUGLAS VALLEY BREAKERS


Edited by moneyhunster, 05 January 2011 - 11:00 PM.

#46 moneyhunster

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:15 PM

The electrical gubbins on top is the "resistor pack" to control the 3 fan speeds.


My modular heater should be here tomorrow, are the electrical gubbins something i could add into the T7 Design heater?

#47 Exmantaa

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:22 PM

The waterflow is described somewhere recently. You cannot block the water flow through the pipes, so instead of a shut-off valve you need a bypass valve to control the heater.

#48 moneyhunster

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:54 PM

The waterflow is described somewhere recently.
You cannot block the water flow through the pipes, so instead of a shut-off valve you need a bypass valve to control the heater.


Im so stupid, i sat for ages trying to figure that one out the other day, so simple :beat: :drink: !

#49 slindborg

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 09:49 AM

Air intake comes from the mouth into the heater box... ok but deftly irritating, and if you took the air from the rear of the front compartment it would be a lot 'cleaner' Air outlet is the real key... It currently comes out aimed at the drivers wheel, this is frankly sh**. Better would be to move the outlet near where the cabin inlet is. Water flow is a MUST, be it through the rad or a bypass. At work I have found a super sexy electronically controled bypass valve.... ohhhhhhh :lol: but needs a little box of tricks to make it properly useful

#50 Exmantaa

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 11:42 AM

something like this:
http://heatingventin...S_VALVE_15_5536

Or a Saab bypass valve (maybe needs combination with a normal control valve)

#51 T7Design

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 11:56 AM

Installing one of these would probably be the cheapest option rather than recreating the flappy paddle. I can retail these a lot cheaper than this seller but I have to buy them in qty's of 50 or more. I am going to have to measure the throw on the cable to see whether or not this would be compatible with the dash control.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...#ht_1996wt_1139

Edited by T7Design, 06 January 2011 - 11:57 AM.

#52 moneyhunster

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 11:59 AM

50 haha that's funny, you'll neerd hundreds :)

#53 slindborg

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 12:29 PM

50 haha that's funny, you'll neerd hundreds :)



:lol:

good luck with the 50....

#54 moneyhunster

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 12:33 PM

First dibbs on a replacement! 1) Moneyhunster ;)

#55 TheRealVXed

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 12:50 PM

I don't think there is any need to replace the actual radiator, HOWEVER if there is a radiator that is is abundance and roughly the same size then I'd be all for that thumbsup The main issue as many have covered is the poor costruction of the box and the layout of the air ducts between the box and the vents. There are so many air leaks at least 50% of the power of mine is lost along the way. thumbsdown I would definately be interested in a replacement if it was circa £100 and not made of sh1tty plastic with massive gaps in. Also as mentioned the position of the air outlet pipe should be changed to allow easy fitting of the air duct whilst in situ. At the moment most of the problem seems to be around that area and getting the pipe snug on the box. An electronic heat control would be perfect as well. Stop the stupid cable seizing! :beat:

#56 soupdragon

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 01:10 PM

I do like the idea of an electronic control as the cable is vague/sticky at best. Instead of moving the intake from the front can't we just include a filter? We will still want cool air in the summer.

#57 slindborg

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 01:31 PM

I do like the idea of an electronic control as the cable is vague/sticky at best.

Instead of moving the intake from the front can't we just include a filter?
We will still want cool air in the summer.



filter = flow restriction.

Taking air not directly from the front/mouth will still mean there is flow at speed with no fan on, but it will be cleaner air to inhale.

The cable only seems to be sticky with the stupid flap connected. Without the flap its pretty free, even when clamped up rather hard (ohh err)

#58 techieboy

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 01:50 PM

I fitted a fine mesh to the air intakes in the crashbox, when the front clam was off. Seems to be very effective, no pressure loss and meant I could remove the foam filter in the Revotec heater pipe. thumbsup

#59 Crazyfrog (Fab)

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 01:55 PM

I fitted a fine mesh to the air intakes in the crashbox, when the front clam was off. Seems to be very effective, no pressure loss and meant I could remove the foam filter in the Revotec heater pipe. thumbsup


i never bothered to fit those but removed the duff filter of the revotec kit:yeahthat:
i like a bit of food while travelling :lol:

#60 TheRealVXed

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 01:57 PM

Stop the stupid cable flap seizing! :beat:


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