380 replies to this topic

[stigg10]

1) Moneyhunster 2) VXed (pending pricing) 3) Aaron D 4) KurtVerbose 5) Stigg10 Brrrrr, brrring it on!

[GiGo]

1) Moneyhunster 2) VXed (pending pricing) 3) Aaron D 4) KurtVerbose 5) Stigg10 6) GiGo (pending pricing)

[zebwach]

1) Moneyhunster 2) VXed (pending pricing) 3) Aaron D 4) KurtVerbose 5) Stigg10 6) GiGo (pending pricing) 7) Zebwach (pending pricing)

[snotvomit]

1) Moneyhunster 2) VXed (pending pricing) 3) Aaron D 4) KurtVerbose 5) Stigg10 6) GiGo (pending pricing) 7) Zebwach (pending pricing) 8) Snotvomit (pending pricing)

[Paulus H]

1) Moneyhunster
2) VXed (pending pricing)
3) Aaron D
4) KurtVerbose
5) Stigg10
6) GiGo (pending pricing)
7) Zebwach (pending pricing)
8) Snotvomit (pending pricing)
9) Paulus H (pending piercing) count me in!

Paul

[V220DR]

[quote name='Paulus H' timestamp='1294782384' post='1128091']
[quote name='snotvomit' timestamp='1294747798' post='1127708']
1) Moneyhunster
2) VXed (pending pricing)
3) Aaron D
4) KurtVerbose
5) Stigg10
6) GiGo (pending pricing)
7) Zebwach (pending pricing)
8) Snotvomit (pending pricing)
9) Paulus H (pending piercing) count me in!
10)V220DR

[T7Design]

Hey guys, Just a quick little update: SoupDragon was kind enough to pop over wednesday lunchtime for me to have a good look over his car and I think I can see another way to fix the problem. 1. Create a more powerful drop in solution into the old heater location. Pro's: Less work required to install. Could possibly be done in 2-3 hours? Con's: More expensive than option 2 and heavier. 2. Remove all the underdash ducting and retrofit a single or dual fan unit within the interior, use 4 outlets with ducting leading to the round demister vents, and use the remaining one or two to feed the footwell or dash. There looks to be room on the dash for some round vents. Pro's: More than likely cheaper to produce as can use already available heater units. System would be lighter than original. Much more powerful than option one. Con's: I imagine a hell of a lot of work is required to rip the dash out and the undertray and could this also affect the dashboard rigidity? Option 2 would get the better results however I imagine it would be very time consuming to remove all the original system and also for those that aren't savvy on the tools, paying somebody to do this would make it the more expensive option in the long run. By going with option one then the swap could be completed in an evening with ease. The next step is to draw up the available space that the original heater occupy's to see what can be crafted to fit within the confines.

[Steve B]

Hey guys,

Just a quick little update:

SoupDragon was kind enough to pop over wednesday lunchtime for me to have a good look over his car and I think I can see another way to fix the problem.


1. Create a more powerful drop in solution into the old heater location.

Sounds ideal to me.

[moneyhunster]

Option 2 would get the better results

How would option 2 give better results?

[GiGo]

Hey guys,

Just a quick little update:

SoupDragon was kind enough to pop over wednesday lunchtime for me to have a good look over his car and I think I can see another way to fix the problem.

1. Create a more powerful drop in solution into the old heater location.

Sounds ideal to me.

[Paulus H]

Adam, If I was you I would not complicate matters. As with everything in life. Offer an affordable solution and you'll make sales. I would not split your potential customers with 2 options. I would just offer (in your professional opinion) a solution that works. Like most VX220 owners I am fed up with being very cold through the winter. Help us Adam, Paul

[T7Design]

Hi guys, I am sorry I didn't make myself very clear with what option 2 really was. After viewing the current system it seems that the whole layout of the ducting seems inefficient, if for instance you installed the twin fan mod heater with one 80 or 100mm attachment feeding the original hose leading to the underdash ducting and then compare this to the same twin fan mod heater installed within the interior (up under the dash) with 50 or 60mm hoses feeding the vents individually you would get better results as the air would have to travel less distance, through less bends and so the whole system would be more efficient, however it requires more work and so as most have said the best compromise for simplicity sake is a drop in, replacement solution with a replacement duct piece feeding the inlet to the interior.

Edited by T7Design, 15 January 2011 - 11:17 PM.

[moneyhunster]

The ducting I bought from you is ten times better than the original stuff! Direct replacement is the way to go, a little luxury was always going to cost a little in weight!

[techieboy]

Removing the dashboard top cover is trivial. Just a case of removing 4-6 self tapping screws and manhandling the cover out of the car. The existing ducting for the top vents is a single piece of moulded plastic that is secured to the underside of the cover with about 20 self tappers and again is dead easy to remove.

But, there isn't a whole lot of space within the dash void. You could probably get away with some 50-60mm hose to feed the existing dash top vents but quite where you'd site a new plenum (with fans etc), and how it would feed the foot vents (I've never actually looked to see how they're setup), I don't know. Where would the matrix be located with the second option?

One of the big "leakage" points on the existing setup is where the inlet on the ducting on the underside of the dash loosely mates with the outlet from the plenum.

Here's what the ducting looks like

[trevvx220]

My Heater mod is working well and i am very happy with the results. Thanks to T7 Designs mini Heater . Have posted some pics listed as Heater.

[snoopstah]

One of the big "leakage" points on the existing setup is where the inlet on the ducting on the underside of the dash loosely mates with the outlet from the plenum.

Here's what the ducting looks like

Agreed. I improved the system on my VXT immeasurably by sealing up the gap between the ducting and the underside of the dash with bathroom sealant. From the factory, the (very thin and flexible) plastic ducting is screwed down into the dash with only some very open-weave foam acting as a (poor) seal.

I also fitted four 60mm x 10mm fans, one directly underneath each windscreen vent, that were wired into the dash fan controller so that they ran at the same speed as the main unit. They were rated at 23cfm each so quite high-flow, although I doubt they reached that in actual use. This obviously doesn't help with the flow to foot outlets, but vastly reduced the time to de-mist the windscreen on cold, wet mornings. No modifications to the ducting or vents was required except a small hole for the fan leads to exit (also sealed with sealant).

[dapimp]

1) Moneyhunster 2) VXed (pending pricing) 3) Aaron D 4) KurtVerbose 5) Stigg10 6) GiGo (pending pricing) 7) Zebwach (pending pricing) 8) Snotvomit (pending pricing) 9) Paulus H (pending piercing) count me in! 10)V220DR 11) DaPimp (pending pricing)

[T7Design]

Hey guys, just a quick update. Over the next week or so SoupDragon is going to remove the original heater from his car and fit one of my Micro Heaters to tie him over until a prototype can be fabricated, with the original heater out I can measure up the available space and then get designing. I have ordered an anemometer which will enable me to record the before and after flow readings and air temperatures, so hopefully this should give you guys a good indication of the difference in power. BFN

[TheRealVXed]

On a quick note can you make the exterior slightly small forward to back so that it fits past the bulk head more easily? The original is a right pita to get out!

[slindborg]

its worth noting that there is a decent bit of space behind the heater box before the firewall/bulkhead. Its approx 4" high and a few inches deep..... My mk2 design was going to sit in that space with the fan coming out vertically to easily pipe to the cabin intake. Would have free'ed up a shed load of space in there