How To Change The Timing Chain
#21
Posted 13 December 2013 - 10:27 PM
#22
Posted 13 December 2013 - 10:30 PM
I found a 12 sided 18mm it gripped well, so hopeful. Have to wait tomorrow get a 6 side.
#23
Posted 14 December 2013 - 01:54 AM
#24
Posted 03 September 2019 - 11:24 PM
It's now back in the car, car on 4 wheels..
After a bit of advice to torque it up..
Handbrake on, brake wedged oncar in first and I still seem to be able to turn the pulley and the bolt...
Advice please..
#25
Posted 04 September 2019 - 12:02 PM
you need something like this.
#26
Posted 04 September 2019 - 12:13 PM
That looks a bit home made?
Is there an off the shelf part that does the job? - Lots of people appear to change the chains themsevles and I've never really read about issues relating to tighting the nut back up.. ooo er
#27
Posted 04 September 2019 - 12:43 PM
I guess to get the resistance of brakes and weight of the car these need to be fully torqued up....?
#28
Posted 04 September 2019 - 02:06 PM
sealey do a locking tool
#29
Posted 04 September 2019 - 02:08 PM
its 100NM + 75deg + 15deg.
you could just use 13 dugga duggas from the air gun.
#30
Posted 04 September 2019 - 03:25 PM
I can't even get the air gun in there as the engine is now back in the car...
Dang - I had a flywheel locking tool aswell to remove the bolt, but I couldn't get anywhere near the torque to tighten it up off the car..
I'm thinking to somehow try and wedge something in the pulley, but cant see any obvious location of method of doing this
#31
Posted 04 September 2019 - 04:07 PM
you could push a screwdriver or something in and jam it on the casing.. but i would only use that as a last resort really.
https://www.ebay.co....-AAAOSw4SlV8G6a
#32
Posted 04 September 2019 - 06:42 PM
I don't think there's any other access point to the flywheel with gearbox/engine in?...
#33
Posted 04 September 2019 - 09:59 PM
you can slip a flatheaded screwdriver on the exhaust side, there is a tiny gap between the box and engine.. its fiddly but you can do it from there.. much easier than removing the starter.
#34
Posted 05 September 2019 - 09:05 AM
Thanks, I shall give this a go...
#35
Posted 17 September 2019 - 05:45 PM
Just take a flat bar of steel about 4/5 mm thick and 30 mm wide.
Length to be determined by available space.
Drill a hole in one end and screw it in the cranckshaft pulley. Then use a second screw in the pulley and have the pulley turned so that the bar is stopped by the second screw....
I will find a photo...
#36
Posted 17 September 2019 - 07:43 PM
#37
Posted 14 May 2020 - 10:55 AM
Brought the fancy tool, got it torqued up and still appeared to be loose. Started removing pulley to take off and is being a pain to remove.. can only assume bent Woodruff key. Looks like strip down and start again.. boooo
Did you ever find out why it was loose?
#38
Posted 14 May 2020 - 11:15 AM
Do you have to drain the oil to change the cam chain? I don't remember Vocky draining the oil when he did mine, he made it look very easy and did it very quickly.
Edited by gaffer1986, 14 May 2020 - 11:15 AM.
#39
Posted 14 May 2020 - 01:02 PM
Do you have to drain the oil to change the cam chain? I don't remember Vocky draining the oil when he did mine, he made it look very easy and did it very quickly.
No, but just stick something at the bottom of the chain housing as there is an opening which goes into the sump.
#40
Posted 14 May 2020 - 01:26 PM
Do you have to drain the oil to change the cam chain? I don't remember Vocky draining the oil when he did mine, he made it look very easy and did it very quickly.
No, but just stick something at the bottom of the chain housing as there is an opening which goes into the sump.
I became acutely aware of that when I dropped a bolt and it splashed in the sump lol
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