37 replies to this topic

[Tail-end Charlie]

I'm not equipped to do the job so it's got to go to a garage. It's not going to that particular garage but they did say re-test was free so it can go back there for MOT.

where about are you, IIRC your not that far from me and I've been known to do the odd job in return for beer

If that's a genuine offer I would be happy to come up and borrow your tools/services and reimburse you appropriately? I would feel better if there was someone there to make sure I don't fcuk up

[vocky]

loosen the clips holding the split gaitor, loosen the locking nut and then use a pair of molegrips to undo the steering arm from the trackrod, once thats undone simply remove the nut, slide off the split gaitor and rebuild in reverse order, don't forget to measure the distance after tightening the locknut, it can move slightly no need to remove the trackrod from the steering arm.

Edited by vocky, 17 January 2011 - 03:00 PM.

[Tail-end Charlie]

it can move slightly

And this is why tracking falls out over time?

[techieboy]

So presumably there is a little bit of play in the steering wrack to be able to lift the track rod end out of the steering arm hole? Or have I got to undo the second screw in the steering arm to disengage the entire assembly marked as K1 (brake discs etc) there?

Yep, there's a decent range of movement. If you're working on the passenger side, you'll probably want to put the steering on full left lock to make sure the tierod comes out of the box section as far as the rack permits. You shouldn't need to undo anything else other than the track rod end from the the steering arm and at the other end from the steering rack. You might want to support the weight of the disk, hub assembly and suspension on a jack or block of wood to make life a little easier getting threads and holes lined up.

So when garages are talking about computer aided tracking, geo and all that jazz, are you saying they are actually just tweaking locking nuts like this one? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I also wanted to know what holds the locking nut in place? I mean how is it locked? Presumably I could screw it all the way to the end of the tie rod end thread if I wanted to? Why is a nut halfway up a thread locked?

For toe (or "tracking"), that's about all they do. If the wheel was dead straight ahead 0° toe, they reduce the number of visible threads on the tie rod to increase toe-out and increase the number of visible threads to give toe-in. Altering camber (on the VX) involves adding/removing camber shims (part 13/14 on the second pic) that are locked between the steering arm and the hub upright. Castor is adjusted by moving the position of the upper wishbone by adding/removing washers in front or behind the wishbone mounts. Similar arrangement on the rear as well.

The trickier bit is knowing what you want in the first place, understanding how those adjustments affect each other and just accurately measuring where you start from and where you end up. It's reasonably easy to do yourself as long as you have a nice bit of known flat ground and some very simple equipment.

[Tail-end Charlie]

OK well thanks for the help lads. I have checked the passenger side gaiter and it is absolutely mashed inside. You can't see it from the outside unless you look straight down the hole. There is quite a big gash in the side of it so I can't complain really. I'll order the part then.

Edited by Tail-end Charlie, 17 January 2011 - 03:44 PM.

[Tail-end Charlie]

OK well thanks for the help lads.

I have checked the passenger side gaiter and it is absolutely mashed inside. You can't see it from the outside unless you look straight down the hole. There is quite a big gash in the side of it so I can't complain really. I'll order the part then.

They come as a pair

Don't suppose anyone wants a steering wrack warmer do they?

[Mangham54]

OK well thanks for the help lads.

I have checked the passenger side gaiter and it is absolutely mashed inside. You can't see it from the outside unless you look straight down the hole. There is quite a big gash in the side of it so I can't complain really. I'll order the part then.

They come as a pair

Don't suppose anyone wants a steering wrack warmer do they?

I'd keep - if one has gone there is every chance the other will follow suit sooner or later.

[ghand]

That's a great explanation guys thanks a lot.

Why can't we have useful members like you up in the midlands instead of duds like Turbobob and VXT_Tim?

So presumably there is a little bit of play in the steering wrack to be able to lift the track rod end out of the steering arm hole? Or have I got to undo the second screw in the steering arm to disengage the entire assembly marked as K1 (brake discs etc) there?

I actually want to do this, it looks like fun! Of course you realise if this is successful I will be on a mission to fix lots of things! And if it goes wrong we will have the worlds first three wheeled VX220

So when garages are talking about computer aided tracking, geo and all that jazz, are you saying they are actually just tweaking locking nuts like this one? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I also wanted to know what holds the locking nut in place? I mean how is it locked? Presumably I could screw it all the way to the end of the tie rod end thread if I wanted to? Why is a nut halfway up a thread locked?

Hi the lock nut locks up onto the track rod end, you will see when you get to it.You may have difficulty spliting the joint without a splitter ,they can get tight .They are on a tapper so a hit either side at the same time or with a solid block (lump hammer ) behind it will do the job ,well has for me but not done a vx ,presume they are all the same This way you dont damage the threads. Borrow a splitter ?

Edited by ghand, 17 January 2011 - 05:42 PM.

[Ouchie]

loosen the clips holding the split gaitor, loosen the locking nut and then use a pair of molegrips to undo the steering arm from the trackrod, once thats undone simply remove the nut, slide off the split gaitor and rebuild in reverse order, don't forget to measure the distance after tightening the locknut, it can move slightly

no need to remove the trackrod from the steering arm.

I would do it this way. Get the side of the car jacked up and do it all from underneath. No real need to remove the wheel either. No need to split ball joints or mess about with tools any more complicated than standard molegrips. Only problem is the gaitor twists when rotating the steering arm so don't put the nylon ties on until its roughly back together again.

[ghand]

loosen the clips holding the split gaitor, loosen the locking nut and then use a pair of molegrips to undo the steering arm from the trackrod, once thats undone simply remove the nut, slide off the split gaitor and rebuild in reverse order, don't forget to measure the distance after tightening the locknut, it can move slightly

no need to remove the trackrod from the steering arm.

I would do it this way. Get the side of the car jacked up and do it all from underneath. No real need to remove the wheel either. No need to split ball joints or mess about with tools any more complicated than standard molegrips. Only problem is the gaitor twists when rotating the steering arm so don't put the nylon ties on until its roughly back together again.

yes i have only split ball joints when changing them thinking about it. Has any one used gatters that just wrap round and tie . Was told they make something like that ??????

[Steve B]

Car has screwed me over by failing it's MOT because of a split steering rack gaiter.

That sounds like a really gay thing to fail on! What is a steering rack gaiter anyway?

Still, it looks like it is gonna cost a ****load. Apparently whatever this job is the tracking will have to be re-done afterwards. Which brings me to my advisory that the tracking is probably out anyway as the front tyres are wearing on the inside!! I've checked and they are indeed wearing quite badly right on the edge. So they need to be replaced as they look barely legal on the inside to me.

I'm not being funny, but I paid a very reputable (and well-known on vx220.org)garage over £500 to service this car just 2months ago. Shouldn't these things have been picked up then?

I did ask them to check both the geo and the front tyres. Could it be that the tracking is not out but it looks like it is because the tyres are old and are running a fast road geometry? I must say it is driving and tracking fine.

Anyway I'm ****** off and now even VOSA is ******* with me.

Not trying to wind you up or anything but come on all this stuff is general maintanence, you should check your tyres yourself and replace if worn. Cause is possibly a case of whoever had the geometry setup last time thinking they are more of a driving hero than they really are... i.e. "I want a track setup with loads of neg front camber" and then driving like Miss Daisy so only ever running on the inner edge of the tyres.

[Mangham54]

driving like Mel (Miss Mangham54) on the karting day

Corrected for you

[Anarchy]

If your only changing one side and you dont put the track rod end back in the same position your steering wheel will be off centre, no need to measure this that and the other, count the turns to get somewhere near then just drive in a straight line and see where the steering wheel points, adjust if necessary. A nice simple job to get started on.

[Tail-end Charlie]

Not trying to wind you up or anything but come on all this stuff is general maintanence, you should check your tyres yourself and replace if worn.

Mmm, fair play.

Cause is possibly a case of whoever had the geometry setup last time thinking they are more of a driving hero than they really are... i.e. "I want a track setup with loads of neg front camber" and then driving like Miss Daisy so only ever running on the inner edge of the tyres.

Have I wronged you in some past life? Steve why don't you just garotte me and be done with it?

Look, I came on here for some advice and I got it. I learned a lot today Thanks for all the advice guys, just waiting for the part now.

Steve: I'm glad I don't have a car with back seats

[ghand]

Hi hope you enjoy trying this job and you sort it , You may move on to bigger jobs ,all good fun ( most times )Dont forget a lot of experts (thankfully) on hear and all started with the plugs and oil.

Edited by ghand, 17 January 2011 - 10:49 PM.

[tibby]

Hello. Also have a busted gaitor on my rack. I've ordered the Elise shop one's. (These new high quality neoprene gaitors with a slightly larger rack end O/D as we have found the original standard ones too difficult to fit with the steering rack in place.) SO...... are they easier to fit???? Or do i need to stretch them also? linky http://www.google.be...510423239538720 Thanks!

[aquilaproejct]

No need to stretch them. Turn the steering wheel to get the gaiter in a position where it's easy to remove. Simple job

[tibby]

No need to stretch them. Turn the steering wheel to get the gaiter in a position where it's easy to remove. Simple job